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Kathmandu Durbar Square
It is easy to be over whelmed by the seemingly uncountable
monuments in the Kathmandu Durbar Square. The house of the
Living Goddess, the ferocious Kal Bhairab, the red monkey god,
and hundreds of erotic carvings are a few examples of the sights
at the Square! The buildings here are the greatest achievements
of the Malla dynasty, and they resulted from the great rivalry
between the three palaces of Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur.
The Valley was divided among the children of Yaksya Malla. For
visitors today, and for the Nepalese, it was serendipitous that
they, and later their offsprings, began an artistic warfare
trying to outdo each other in splendid constructions. Kings
copied everything their neighbours built in an even grander
style. A visitor who wanders around the Square will see a round
temple in the pagoda architectural style, the temple of Goddess
Taleju (who played dice with King Jaya Prakash Malla), and an
image of Shiva and Parbati sitting together among the many
monuments. The Square is teeming with colorful life. Vendors
sell vegetables, curios, flutes, and other crafts around the
Kastamandap rest house. This rest house is said to have been
built with the wood of a single tree and is the source from
which the Kathmandu Valley got its name. Nearby are great drums
which were beaten to announce royal decrees. All woodcarvings,
statues, and architecture in this area are exceptionally fine,
and Kathmandu Durbar Square is among the most important sights
for travellers to see.
Swayambhu Nath
The history of the Valley, according to the legends, begins with
Swayambhu, or the "the self existent". In times uncharted by
history, Bodhisattva Manjusri came across a beautiful lake
during his travel. He saw a lotus that emitted brilliant light
at the lake's center, so he cut a gorge in a southern hill and
drained the waters to worship the lotus. Men settled on the bed
of the lake and called it the Kathmandu Valley. From then on,
the hilltop of the Self existent Lord has been a holy place.
Swayambhu's light was covered in time because few could bear its
intensity. By the thirteenth century, after many layers were
added to the original structure that enveloped the Lord's power,
a dome like shape had been acquired. The stupas central mast was
damaged and replaced at that time. Peripheral sources of power
were discovered on the hilltop as well and stupas, temples, and
rest houses were built to honour them. Images of important
deities, both Buddhist and Hindu, were also installed. Today,
age-old statues and shrines dot the stupa complex. Behind the
hilltop is a temple dedicated to Manjusri of Saraswati - the
goddess of learning.
Swayambhu is, perhaps, the best place to observe the religious
harmony in Nepal. The stupa is among the most ancient in this
part of the world, and its worshippers are diverse from Newar
nuns, Tibetan monks, and Brahmin priests to lay Buddhists and
Hindus. The largest image of the Sakyamuni Buddha in Nepal is in
a monastery next to the stupa. Other monasteries here have huge
prayer wheels, fine Buddhist paintings, and special butter lamps
which may be lit after presenting monetary offerings. Swayambhu
is a major landmark of the Valley and looks like a beacon below
the Nagarjun hill. It provides an excellent view of the
Kathmandu Valley. Devotees have climbed the steps on the eastern
side for centuries. Statues of the Buddha, mini stupas,
monasteries and monkeys make the climb to Swayambhu ? which is
fairly steep worthwhile. But for someone who is physically
disabled or is pressed for time, the western road allows you to
get off your transport almost at the base of the stupa.
Boudha Nath
Boudhanath is among the largest stupas in South Asia, and it has
become the focal point of Tibetan Buddhism in Nepal. The white
mound looms thirty-six meters overhead. The stupa is located on
the ancient trade route to Tibet, and Tibetan merchants rested
and offered prayers here for many centuries. When refugees
entered Nepal from Tibet in the 1950s, many of them decided to
live around Bouddhanath. They established many gompas, and the
"Little Tibet" of Nepal was born. This "Little Tibet" is still
the best place in the Valley to observe Tibetan lifestyle. Monks
walk about in maroon robes. Tibetans walk with prayer wheels in
their hands, and the rituals of prostration are presented to the
Buddha as worshippers circumambulate the stupa on their hands
and knees, bowing down to their lord. Many people believe that
Bouddhanath was constructed in the fifth century, but definite
proof is lacking. The stupa is said to entomb the remains of a
Kasyap sage who is venerable both to Buddhists and Hindus. One
legend has it that a woman requested a Valley king for the
donation of ground required to build a stupa. She said she
needed land covered by one buffalo's skin and her wish was
granted by the King. She cut a buffalo skin into thin strips and
circled off a fairly large clearing. The king had no choice but
to give her the land.
Pashupati Nath
Pashupatinath is the holiest Hindu pilgrimage destination in
Nepal. There are linga images of Shiva along with statues,
shrines, and temples dedicated to other deities in the complex.
A temple dedicated to Shiva existed at this site in AD 879.
However, the present temple was built by King Bhupatindra Malla
in 1697. A gold-plated roof, silver doors, and woodcarvings of
the finest quality decorate the pagoda construction. Guheswari
Temple, restored in AD 1653, represents the female "force". It
is dedicated to Satidevi, Shiva's first wife, who gave up her
life in the flames of her father's fire ritual.
A circuit of the Pashupati area takes visitors past a sixth
century statue of the Buddha, an eighth-century statue of Brahma
the creator and numerous other temples. Some other places to
visit are Rajrajeswari Temple, built in 1407, Kailas with lingas
more than 1,400 years old, Gorakhnath temple, and the courtyard
of Biswarup. There are rows of Shiva shrines and Hindu pilgrims
from all over South Asia offering puja worship to Shiva, tile
Lord of Destruction.
The Bagmati River flows close by and the Arya Ghat cremation
grounds are here. We strongly advise photographers not to take
photos of cremations and of bereaved families. Sadhus, sages who
follow the lifestyle of Shiva, may be seen covered in ashes and
lion cloths. They ask for money in case you want to take their
photos. The main Pashupatinath courtyard may be entered by those
of Hindu faith only.
Indra Chowk
Indrachowk, a square, the courtyard of Indra named after an
ancient Hindu deityis walking distance far from Durbar square.
Akash Bhairab temple, a three storey temple lies at Indrachowk
the main market avenue of the Kathmandu city. The image of Akash
Bhairav is displayed outside the temple for a week during
Indrajatra, the festival of Indra the God of Rain.
Freak Street
The road running off Durbar square to the south, has since 1973
rejoiced in the unofficial title of Freak street. It used to be
wild jumble of cheap hotels, restaurant, and all the freaky
travellers.
White Machhendra Nath
The temple is situated at Machhendra Bahal near Indrachowk. This
two storeyed temple was built by Yaksha Malla in 1500 AD The
chariot festival of white Machendra Nath (the god of mercy) is
annually celebrated in Kathmandu Valley. The traditional music
is always played in the evening at this temple which is open to
westerners.
Thamel
Thamel area has recently emerged as the most popular tourist
area of Kathmandu. Thamel is 15 to 20 minutes walk from the
center of Kathmandu. It is amazing to see how this area has
become the centre for budget travellers in recent years. Thamel
is clean narrow street full of mushrooming lodges, hotels for
budget travellers, restaurant, bar, tourists oriented shops and
bustling with activities.
Dharahara
Also known as Bhimsen Stambha (Tower), Dharahara is a 50.5 meter
tower built by Prime Minister Bhimsen Thapa in 1832. Situated
near the General Post Office, the tower is one of Kathmandu's
best known monuments. From the top of the tower, one has a
panoramic view of the whole Kathmandu Valley. It is not open for
the public. |